36 Hours in Ulaanbaatar
Ulaanbaatar, meaning ‘Red Hero’, has moved at least 21 times, reflecting the people’s nomadic culture. As the coldest capital on earth, Ulaanbaatar has short summers and long winters. But don’t let that deter you, because the more variety in seasons — the more variety in activities, so that every time you come to UB, there is always something new to discover!
Friday
9am Fortunes and Temples
With more than half the population practicing Tibetan Buddhism, Gandan Monastery is a must visit monument in Ulaanbaatar. One of the three largest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in Mongolia, it was miraculously saved during the Stalinist purges, because a visiting US Vice President had wanted to see a monastery. Come in time for morning chants and see elderly people in brightly colored traditional clothing offering incense and praying. Have your fortune read by a monk and have him assign your chants, so that you may be protected from any evil coming your way.
11am City Nomads
Just across the street from the Gandan Monastery stand an array of ger (yurt as the Russians called it) districts. Half the population of UB live in these types of dwellings and it is crucial to see the variety of social issues that people face in these areas. 2km from the city center, many of these dwellings do not have indoor plumbing and central heating.
1pm North Korean Restaurant
Mongolia is one of the few countries that have friendly relations with North Korea. Mongolia imports tobacco and medicinal products from N.Korea, while we export oil to the Kim regime. More than a thousand North Korean workers lived and worked in Mongolia until January of 2018 when Mongolia was pushed to comply with the UN sanctions. Nevertheless, Korean beer and food are served by Korean waiters at this restaurant in the nooks.
If you are not inclined to support the regime no matter your curiosity, try Rosewood Kitchen+Enoteca, located near the 1st school (the first four story building in Mongolia). They also have a special brunch menu for the weekend.
2.30pm Cheap thrills
Come and haggle for cheaper prices at this flea market that sells all. Informally called the ‘black market’ or the ‘people’s market’, Narantuul market has everything you want, from stationery, clothes, souvenirs to shaman’s drums. A good selection of ‘deel’, traditional Mongolian clothing, is available here in all sizes (unless you’re taller than 2 meters, then it’s a bit difficult to find the right size). Lose yourself in the hustle and bustle of people from all walks of life and buy all the weird things your heart desires. I won’t judge.
4pm Strictly local
Grab a bite at one of the stalls at the market. Hope you have prepared your stomach, as the food is strictly for the locals.
6pm Soviet sophistication
The State Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet, established more than 50 years ago, is a hallmark of Mongolia’s cultural ties with Russia (and designed by a German). Mongolian dancers and singers still train by Russian standards and are considered to be some of the best in the world, winning the Tchaikovsky Competition - the Olympics of Opera. Performances range from classics such as Swan Lake ballet and Carmen opera, to Mongolian classics such as Three Dramatic Characters (wow the translation is weird).
8pm Fat Cat Jazz Club
Founded by young musicians, this new underground jazz club features performers young and old, Mongolian and foreign, who breathe new colors to the city life. Enjoy great music and good food with strangers from all over the world. If you don’t feel like jazz, drop by Veranda, which is on the second floor of the same building. Great food (their lasagna is my favorite), good ambiance.
11pm I Want It That Way
You cannot come to UB and not do karaoke. Unless you prefer a night club which is also cool. We got clubs for any budget :p Seriously, there are clubs I have yet to go to because I can’t afford it. Go to Huuhdiin 100/Seoul Street and enjoy the variety of clubs and pubs. Nightlife in UB offsets the peace and tranquility of the countryside, but drinks are reasonably priced and hey, we know how to party.
Saturday
8am Bird’s eye view from Bogd Mountain
Known as the first/oldest legally protected natural area in the world, Bogd Mountain is a quick weekend getaway for metropolitan citizens, who spend 2–6 hours hiking up various trails, some of which lead to the house of the President. Sorry there Prez, didn’t mean to go over to your property. The mountain offers a breath of fresh air just 30 minutes from the city center. Make sure to pack nice snacks for yourself and your furry friends.
12pm Ancient stones and deer
As you come down from Bogd Mountain and pass by the President’s House, be sure to visit ancient petroglyphs depicting deer. They are virtually unprotected so you can touch centuries old memorabilia.
1pm Asian restaurant in Asia
Try Mongolian traditional food inside a ger inside a restaurant (Asiana Zaisan). Inception! There are also Japanese and Chinese dishes and you can try them all as they are much more meat heavy than in the actual countries.
2pm Back in Time
Visit the Bogd Khan palace museum, where Mongolia’s first car, brought in early 1900s, is on display, along with stuffed animals and items the last King of Mongolia wore and used during his lifetime. His summer palace, which currently houses Buddhist tangkas and statues, used to be an orphanage run by his Queen.
4pm War & Tanks
Count the steps up to a monument for WW2 soldiers. Before going up there, make sure to take a pic in front of an actual tank that was made from Mongolians’ donations to the Soviet Union. The monument itself is a beautiful mosaic of life during the Soviet times.
6pm Indian food in UB?
The number one restaurant in UB on TripAdvisor? Hazara Indian Restaurant. Not because Mongolian food is horrible, but because Hazara has operated longer than many restaurants in UB and is owned by a lovely Indian couple, who know their Indian food.
8pm Mongolian traditional massage
Never heard of it? Because it has been reserved specifically for Mongolians. Just kidding. We use Mongolian ingredients for a healthy massage experience that will have you relaxed and ready for your next adventures. Try Otoch Manramba hospital, but be sure to call a day early.
This is not a complete list of activities in Ulaanbaatar.
What would you add to the list?
